First - the actual ruins = AWESOME and awe-inspiring and super interesting. I would totally recommend going to Chichen Itza. The history and the culture piece was totally worth it.
That said, we did not choose our tour wisely. We picked a tour that was supposed to be Chichen Itza and Valladolid (this cute city on the way to the ruins). When our van arrived to pick us up, the guy said "oh you've been upgraded - don't tell anyone what you paid." Yeah right. Turns out the "upgrade" meant the actual basic trip (that includes a stop at a cenote and not at Valladolid).
Our tour guide was, in a word, awful. He basically talked the whole time about how the "invaders" or "colonizers" came in and did awful, terrible things. When we drove through Valladolid (without stopping), he said "look at the churches - the invaders made the Mayans tear down their temples and use the stones to build their churches." "They made us change our names." "The Mayan shamans knew more about medicine than these people that have gone to school for 10 years."
Now I don't mind a bit of history that is truthful and not flattering to white people. But this was literally the WHOLE. DRIVE. THERE. And then there were comments about "you rich white people - don't say you're not rich - you're staying at those nice resorts."
Lunch was so-so and didn't include drinks. It was at this big souvenir stand that (according to our guide) was run by "real" Mayans. However, they mostly sold the same stuff you would find at the ruins and at higher prices.
At the ruins, we were happy to ditch our guide and went with the other guide for our group. The tour was interesting and the kids loved learning about pok-ta-pok, the Mayan sport where the losing team also lost their heads.
If you go, make sure to stand in the center of one of the sides of the pyramid and clap your hands (in sync with others in your group). The echo is said to be the sound of an eagle and it's really neat.
The one detraction from strolling around enjoying the ruins is the voluminous number of vendors lining the paths. It's absolutely ridiculous and they constantly call out and use their jaguar whistles to try to get your attention. If you like bartering, they will barter. It's just the sheer number of them that becomes quite annoying. It's more like a huge farmer's market (with pushy farmers) than a historical site. Still, the ruins themselves are so magnificent, it's worth it in my estimation.
Next up: The Jolly Roger Pirate Dinner Show (in Cancun)
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